SEWING A ZERO WASTE TIE TOP
Zero Waste Tie Top
designed by Birgitta Helmersson
Zero Waste Sewing is the ability to make up a garment, leaving no fabric to waste.
The Zero Waste Tie Top by Birgitta Helmersson is a pattern which allows for four different garments! Available here at A KIND CLOTH, I knew I wanted to make one as soon as I saw it!
The sewing pack does not include a sewing pattern like traditional sewing packs do, but comes with 2 instruction booklets to explain how to mark your fabric, dependent on the size required. It also comes with some templates for the front and back facings, which you can either cut out, or trace over to use. (And then store in the sewn-in envelope).
Choosing the fabric
As soon as I saw this fabric print, I fell in love with it, and knew I needed to make something with it! I usually like to make shirt-dresses, but I felt that this bold pattern would overwhelm my petite frame. So I felt that a simple top would show off the funky floral design, and would be enough of a pop of colour. I was going through top sewing patterns I had, and thought that this fabric may look fun as a Zero Waste Tie Top.
There are 4 options within the Zero Waste Tie Top pack, and I liked the look of View 1. Though designed mainly for more structured fabrics such as linens, I had chosen an Eco Viscose fabric, as I felt it would be more blouse-like in View 1.
Choosing a size
A loose-fitting top, with generous ease, there are 2 sizes to choose from in the sewing pack. Size One for bust/hip 35"-45", and Size Two for bust/hip 43"-53". However, there are instructions included within the booklets to allow for up to a 61" bust/hip.
I fall within the Size One bracket, and followed the instructions for that option. Choosing View 1 meant that I only needed 1 metre of a 138cm wide fabric!
Cutting the fabric
I must be honest, and say that I feel the instructions would be confusing for beginner sewers. Some experience of working with patterns or pattern drafting will make it easier to understand how the zero-waste garment construction works. However, with a bit of patience, I'm sure the beginner sewer could work it out!
The fabric I chose was the Trail Run Brown Eco Viscose. Viscose is known to be slippy, and I should have thought about this when choosing to make a Zero Waste pattern with it! The majority of Zero Waste Sewing Patterns rely on straight lines, and rectangle shapes. Trying to cut any straight lines on a Viscose fabric requires patience, as the slightest bit of movement can cause a significant slip up. I definitely have plenty of not-very straight lines in this garment!
My sizing only required 1 metre of fabric but once I had washed and air dried (thank goodness for the sun lately!) the fabric, the ends were rather frayed, so by the time I had cut them off to make a straight line, I ended up losing 4cm, and took this off the length of the top. I don't think it made much difference in the finished product!
You can see in the picture on the left, the remains of the fabric after cutting out. Just the selvedges, and the frayed ends of the fabric piece are what is left over. No fabric scraps here, well, except for the back facing piece I chose to leave off.
The back facing piece would be useful for heavy fabrics to add some weight to the hem of the garment at the back. However, as I was using a fine, drape fabric, I felt that adding the back facing piece would create a weird shape to the back of the garment. The fabric is so fine, that it hangs nicely on its own, and so, I felt the back facing piece would be unnecessary for my fabric choice.
Putting the pieces together
The instructions provided in the sewing pack are well set-out, along with illustrations. You do have to pay attention though, as depending on which of the four designs you choose to make, will change which instruction you have to do, and which you should skip!
I usually overlock my seams individually, so that if I need to alter it later (if I change weight), it is easier to do so. However, as this garment is loose-fitting, that it would be unlikely I need to alter it later, I chose to french-seam all the seams for a neater finish. This obviously took longer to construct the garment than had I whizzed it all through the overlocker, but still, I felt like it was quick sew. Apart from the fiddly fabric, it was a pretty straightforward sew. Unfortunately, I didn't note down the exact time I started sewing, but I think it took me just over 4 hours to put together, from laying the fabric on a table big enough, to the time the garment is fully made up.
The finished garment, and any changes
I love the final garment, it adds a boost of colour and fun to my wardrobe! The fabric hangs beautifully and is so soft to wear. After making it, I felt that the side darts could have been omitted for this soft Viscose fabric choice. As shown in the picture, the darts are low, and don't offer any shaping to the top, as I would wear this as a blouse tucked into my trousers anyway. I understand as a short top, it would look good in a structured fabric.
The sleeves feel fun and floaty, and I love that there are no buttons to combat with!
I really enjoyed making this top, and love the combination of fabric and sewing pattern, although I never would have thought of using a Viscose for this sewing pattern originally!
Now, having seen the other three options available within the sewing pack, I already have my eye, and a fabric choice, for one of the other Views! Stay tuned!
Sewing Pattern: Zero Waste Tie Top by Birgitta Helmersson
Fabric: Trail Run Brown Eco Viscose by Nerida Hansen in collaboration with Verhees Textiles.
Thread: Old sewing thread found in the house!
Credits: All photos and words by Marine Wan at A KIND CLOTH